Exploring Western Prefectures
Chugoku | Japan

I have been visiting the Chugoku Region; 中国地方 — on and off for over eight years now. I first explored the region back in early 2017 with my Japanese partner. Her family is from Hiroshima City, and it was my first experience of meeting a ‘real’ Japanese family. I was quite nervous of meeting them at that time, however I needn’t have worried; they were, and continue to be very welcoming, open and caring.
Their daughter later became my wife, and we now have a beautiful three year old daughter of our own.

The first three years of visiting this area, of which this essay collection is formed, are the most special for me. It was a magic time full of discovery and exploration, getting to know a culture at a deeper level than had been possible from within the often frenetic and sometimes harsh bubble of Tokyo City, where I was living at the time.

I will add another essay that focuses on Hiroshima City, and its world famous island neighbour — Itsukushima, or Miyajima, in due course.

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Including the three photos above; Tomonoura; 鞆の浦 — is a small and cute old coasting fishing village a couple of hours drive to the east of Hiroshima City.

It’s a peaceful place for a day trip with many little cafes and a few sights to take in. Possibly the most famous landmark is the Joyato Stone Lighthouse.

The town itself is also the inspiration for the town of the same name in the Studio Ghibli animated film by Hayao Miyazaki — Ponyo.

Kintaikyo Bridge; 錦帯橋 — is an elegant five-arched wooden bridge built atop stone pillars. It’s not the original of course, as most things in Japan are subject to the brutal mix of earthquakes; tsunamis and typhoons, the latter of which destroyed the original bridge in 1950 after 300 years or battling the elements.

It was reconstructed to the same original design in 1953. It’s a beautiful example of ancient Japanese design and engineering and certainly worth a day trip.

Above the Nishiki River there is a park and castle, both accessible via a cable-car, and affords some superb scenery of the area.

Mitarai; 御手洗 — is a small village and historic preservation district of traditional architecture with a small fishing harbour on the east coast of Ōsaki-Kamijima Island; 大崎上島 — in the Seto Inland Sea; 瀬戸内海 — between Honshu; 本土 — and Shikoku; 四国.

Getting to and around the Geiyo Islands; 芸予諸島 — requires driving over some quite spectacular suspension bridges, of which the Kurushima Kaikyō suspension bridge is the most impressive. When completed in 1999 it was the world's longest bridge of its type; it connects Hiroshima Prefecture; 広島県 — and Honshu, with Ehime Prefecture; 愛媛県 — and the fourth major island of Japan: Shikoku; 四国 — spanning a series of islets and small islands — on which Mitarai finds itself.

Onomichi; 尾道 —is the gateway city to these island and the bridges that connect them.

Kurashiki; 倉敷 — is located in Okayama Prefecture; 岡山県 — not far from its capital Okayama City. Kurashiki has a well preserved canal system, lined with willow trees, that is crisscrossed with a network of lovely old stone bridges.

The area dates back to the Edo Period (1603-1867), when the city served as an important rice distribution centre.
In the twentieth century it became famous for being the first area to manufacture denim in Japan, and retains a healthy scene of boutique designer denim houses that attract international attention and acclaim.

Kurashiki is a living and breathing historical town, and not just a display piece like some other tourist destinations in Japan, therefore it has a good buzz and genuine energy thanks to the locals going about their regular lives; the former storehouses have been converted into museums, boutiques, restaurants and cafes — making the town a great destination for a day trip or two.

Yanai; 柳井 — is a small, charming coastal town located in Yamaguchi Prefecture; 山口県 — and not far from Hiroshima City; 広島市 — therefore a good destination for a day trip.

Yanai is another Edo Period (1603-1867) town, with some great examples of old Japanese architecture, merchant shops and townhouses. However, what sets this town apart and makes the streets so special to explore is the red and white goldfish lanterns that line the buildings, streets and interiors/exteriors of most shops and buildings; they are everywhere!

They are called Kingyo Chochin; 金魚ちょうちん — literally goldfish lantern, and are unique to Yanai. Constructed from washi; 和紙 — paper, with a bamboo structural skeleton. But more importantly they put a smile on your face and make the streets especially beautiful during the evenings when they are illuminated.

金魚